INTRODUCTION: Skin health and skin care to reduce the effects of aging are the main interests of many researchers. The skin is very important because it protects the body from various effects of the external environment, and studies of the largest organ of the human body have been conducted since antiquity. In skin, aging effects are severe enough to promote changes in cell structure and biochemical composition. In this study, we quantitatively analyzed the water content and natural moisturizing factor of human facial skin in vivo and in real time by confocal Raman spectroscopy. This non-invasive technique is capable of providing detailed information on the biochemical composition at different depth profiles in the skin. METHODS: We studied 10 volunteers, phototype II (40 and 50 years old), using a confocal Raman system to examine the skin surface down to 25 µm. Raman spectra were obtained before product use (T0), and after 30 days of continuous use of cosmetics (T30). RESULTS: The results show a significant increase of 6.4% in water content in the surface layer of the facial skin after the cosmetic use. The amounts of natural moisturizing factor (NMF) compounds were also increased. Urocanic acid underwent a greater change in relation to carboxylic acid pyrrolidone, with a 38.5% increase in the stratum corneum. CONCLUSION: Confocal Raman spectroscopy identified changes in the biochemical composition of the superficial layers of the epidermis, which suggests the anti-aging efficacy of the formulation.

O envelhecimento cutâneo caracteriza-se por alterações celulares e moleculares. Neste contexto, a espectroscopia Raman Confocal foi utilizada para medir estas alterações bioquímicas em função da profundidade da pele in vivo. Neste estudo houve a tentativa de correlacionar os modos vibracionais dos aminoácidos puros com os espectros da pele de voluntárias de diferentes faixas etárias. Foram coletados espectros in vivo de 32 voluntárias, sendo 11 para o Grupo A (20-23 anos), 11 para o Grupo B (39-42 anos) e 10 para o Grupo C (59-62 anos). Para cada grupo, os espectros Raman foram medidos na superfície (0 µm), 30 ± 3 µm e 60 ± 3 µm. Os resultados das comparações intergrupos mostraram que o grupo de maior idade teve prevalência da banda da tirosina, mas também apresentou um decréscimo da banda do ácido pirrolidônico, centrada em 875 cm-1. A banda da amida I, centrada em 1637 cm-1, atribuída à presença de colágeno, como também outras proteínas e lipídeos, apresentou uma menor intensidade no Grupo C, o que pode ser justificado pelo decréscimo na concentração de colágeno em função da idade.

Skin aging is characterized by cellular and molecular alterations. In this context, Confocal Raman spectroscopy was used in vivo to measure these biochemical changes as function of the skin depth. In this study we have tried to correlate spectra from pure amino acids to in vivo spectra from volunteers with different ages. This study was performed on 32 volunteers: 11 from Group A (20-23 years), 11 from Group B (39-42 years) and 10 from Group C (59-62 years). For each group, the Raman spectra were measured on the surface (0 µm), 30 ± 3 µm and 60 ± 3 µm below the surface. The results from intergroup comparisons showed that the oldest group had a prevalence of the tyrosine band, but it also presented a decrease in the band centered at 875 cm-1 of pyrrolidone acid. The amide I band centered at 1637 cm-1 that is attributed to collagen, as well as other proteins and lipid, showed a smaller amount of these biomolecules for Group C, which can be explained by the decrease in collagen concentration as a function of age.