Considering the importance of an adequate composition of the formulation in the development of stable, safe and effective cosmetic products, experimental design techniques are tools that can optimize the formulation development process. The objective of this study was to develop topical formulations using the Box-Behnken design with response surface methodology and evaluate its physical, sensory and moisturizing properties. The experimental design used in the first step allowed to identify and to quantify the influence of raw materials, as well as the interaction between them. In the second step, the analysis identified the influence of soy lecithin, the phytantriol and capric acid triglyceride and caprylic on the consistency index, stickiness and greasiness and skin hydration. Cetearyl alcohol, dicetyl phosphate and cetyl phosphate 10EO and acrylates/C10-30 alkylacrylate crosspolymer showed effects in rheological parameters. The addition of soy lecithin had significant effects in terms of consistency index, stickiness, oiliness and immediate moisturizing effects. Phytantriol showed effects on increasing consistency index and oiliness sensation. Thus, the experimental design was shown to be an effective tool for research and development of cosmetics, since it allowed the assessment of the individual and interaction effects of raw materials in the responses: rheological parameters, sensory and clinical efficacy.

Abstract This study investigated the effects of low concentrations of sericin (≤ 1.5 wt%) in starch- poly(butylene-adipate-co-terephthalate) (PBAT) films. The films were produced by blown extrusion and mechanical, barrier and structural properties were determined. Films containing 1.0 and 1.5 wt% sericin showed higher tensile strength (6.41 and 6.59 MPa) and Young's modulus (90.88 and 132.71 MPa) compared with film without sericin (4.76 MPa and 18.64 MPa). When 0.5 wt% of sericin was used, the elongation was reduced by 62%. The addition of sericin in a concentration of 1.5% (w/w) decreased the water vapor permeability of films from 7.55 to 5.94 g (m s Pa)-1, likely due to the formation of a more homogeneous and compact matrix. Based on these results, a mechanism of action is proposed, whereby sericin acts at the interface of the polymers (starch and PBAT), reducing the interfacial tension and enhancing compatibility.

The aim of this work was to manufacture the biodegradable nanocomposite films by extrusion from different combinations of cassava starch, xanthan gum and nanoclays (sodium montmorillonite - MMT- Na) and to characterize them according to their microstructure, optical, mechanical and barrier properties. Films were manufactured from nine starch/xanthan/nanoclay combinations, containing glycerol as plasticizer. Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) of the starch-xanthan extruded films showed reticulated surface and smooth interior, indicating that the gum was mostly concentrated on the surface of the films, while starch/xanthan/nanoclays films showed a more homogeneous surface, suggesting that the introduction of nanoclays provided a better biopolymeric interaction. In general, nanoclays addition (2.5 - 5.0, w%) generated more transparent and resistant films, with lower water vapor permeabilities and lower water sorption capacities and xanthan gum addition improved the elongation ofa starch films.

Citric acid was used as a compatibilizer in the production of starch and PBAT films plasticized with glycerol and processed by blow extrusion. Films produced were characterized by WVP, mechanical properties, FT-IR-ATR and SEM. WPV ranged from 3.71 to 12.73×10-11 g m-1 s-1 Pa-1, while tensile strength and elongation at break ranged from 1.81 to 7.15 MPa and from 8.61 to 23.63%, respectively. Increasing the citric acid concentration improved WVP and slightly decreased film resistance and elongation. The films micrographs revealed a more homogeneous material with the addition of citric acid. However, the infrared spectra revealed little about cross-linking esterification reaction