The para rubber tree (Hevea basilensis) is an economically important tropical tree species that produces natural rubber, a valuable industrial raw material. Innovative products that are derived from by-products from the rubber production process, such as seeds, are important for the sustainability of the para rubber industry. Therefore we subjectively assessed para rubber seed oil for its makeup-removal efficacy and developed it into a makeup cleansing product with appropriate quality control measures for the cosmetic industry. The makeup-removal efficacy of para rubber seed oil was analyzed using a validated UV-Vis spectroscopy, which indicated that the oil removed 86.21 ± 2.48% of liquid foundation [relative standard deviation (RSD) = 2.88%]. Therefore, we developed stable makeup removers containing 40-70% para rubber seed oil. Bio-oil removers containing 50% and 60% oil had the best appearance and texture and were subsequently evaluated for their makeup-removal efficacy. The bio-oil remover with the higher oil content was significantly better at removing makeup (95.26 ± 0.97% removal by the 60% oil compared with 73.88 ± 3.97% removal by the 50% oil). To conclude, para rubber seed oil is a promising new bio-oil for the cosmetic industry, which broadens consumers’ choices of bio-oil makeup removers. We believe that the manufacture and quality control of this innovative and efficient makeup remover are feasible on an industrial scale.

ABSTRACT Green tea (Camellia sinensis (L.) Kuntze, Theaceae) polyphenols have activities against skin disorders; however, anti-sebum efficacy of green tea cosmetic has sparely been reported. The facial tonner containing green tea was therefore developed and clinical evaluated. The base formulas which stabled following accelerated tests were sensorial assessed in ten volunteers. The base with hydroxyethyl cellulose, glycerin and panthenol (totally 3.6%) with the significant (p < 0.05) preference (82.3 ± 0.55%) over the others was further developed to green tea preparations. All of the products were stable and caused none of skin irritation as closed patch tested in twenty volunteers. Thereafter, they were clinical evaluated in the same group of the volunteers and monitored with Sebumeter® by means of a split-face, randomized single-blind, placebo-controlled study. Anti-greasy efficacy of 2, 4.5 and 7% green tea tonners were 3.47 ± 0.10, 8.18 ± 0.44 and 17.87 ± 0.46% following 14 days of facial treatment. The efficiency was pronounced at the end of the study; day 28 (8.48 ± 0.13, 20.26 ± 1.03 and 31.57 ± 1.22%). Anti-sebum efficacy of the 4.5 and 7% green tea tonners were significantly better than the base formula (day 14; p < 0.05, day 28; p < 0.01). The efficacy of 28 days treatment was significantly better than 14 days (p < 0.05). The safe and efficient green tea tonner for oily face treatment was therefore approved in this context.

ABSTRACT Peel extracts of litchi and rambutan, and that of tamarind seed coat were investigated in relation to their utility in skin-aging treatments. Standardized extracts of tamarind were significantly (p < 0.05) more efficient at O2 •- scavenging (IC50 = 27.44 ± 0.09) than those of litchi and rambutan (IC50 = 29.57 ± 0.30 and 39.49 ± 0.52 μg/ml, respectively) and the quercetin standard (IC50 = 31.88 ± 0.15 μg/ml). Litchi extract proved significantly (p < 0.05) more effective for elastase and collagenase inhibition (88.29 ± 0.25% and 79.46 ± 0.92%, respectively) than tamarind (35.43 ± 0.68% and 57.69 ± 5.97%) or rambutan (31.08 ± 0.38% and 53.99 ± 6.18%). All extracts were safe to human skin fibroblasts and inhibit MMP-2, with litchi extract showing significantly (p < 0.01) enhanced inhibition over the standard, vitamin C (23.75 ± 2.74% and 10.42 ± 5.91% at 0.05 mg/ml, respectively). Extracts suppress melanin production in B16F10 melanoma cells through inhibition of tyrosinase and TRP-2, with litchi extract being the most potent, even more so than kojic acid (standard). These results highlight the potential for adding value to agro-industrial waste, as the basis for the sustainable production of innovative, safe, anti-aging cosmetic products.

Abstract Application of sunscreen is the most established method of protecting skin from premature aging and photoaging. In this study, the passion fruit seed extract, enriched with biologically beneficial phenolics, was formulated into sun-protective makeup product. The UVB protection of concealer mousse was found have twofold higher sun protection factor (SPF) than the liquid foundation (15.48 ± 1.60 and 5.88 ± 0.30, respectively). The SPF of concealer mousse as well as the liquid foundation containing 0.1% and 0.3% of the passion fruit seed extract were 18.75 ± 0.28, 18.99 ± 0.71 and 9.32 ± 0.88, 9.77 ± 1.37, respectively. Therefore, the concealers with a similar sun-protective efficacy (p>0.05) were included for stability test accordingly. The sun-protective efficacy did not significantly shift (p>0.05) because the 0.1% and 0.3% passion fruit extract concealers had SPF of 18.09 ± 1.48 and 18.60 ± 1.21. The concealers exhibited UVA photoprotection with a boot star rating of 4 and a critical wavelength wider than 370 nm. The safety of 0.1% passion fruit extract concealer mousse was assessed. It did not cause skin irritation when assessed in human volunteers. This sunscreen makeup product provides UVA and UVB protection and is therefore suitable for daily application.