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Diffraction and reflection of irregular waves in a harbor employing a spectral model

The SWAN wave model is widely used in coastal waters and the main focus of this work is on its application in a harbor. Its last released version - SWAN 40.51 - includes an approximation to compute diffraction, however, so far there are few published works that discuss this matter. The performance of the model is therefore investigated in a harbor where reflection and diffraction play a relevant role. To assess its estimates, a phase-resolving Boussinesq wave model is employed as well, together with measurements carried out at a small-scale model of the area behind the breakwater. For irregular, short-crested waves with broad directional spreading, the importance of diffraction is relatively small. On the other hand, reflection of the incident waves is significant, increasing the energy inside the harbor. Nevertheless, the SWAN model does not achieve convergence when it is set to compute diffraction and reflection simultaneously. It is concluded that, for situations typically encountered in harbors, with irregular waves near reflective obstacles, the model should be set without the diffraction option.

wind waves; SWAN model; wave reflection; wave diffraction; wave transformations in a harbor


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