A study on the functional properties of silk and polyester / lyocell mixed fabric

Jeyaraj, Jeyakodi Moses; Arumugam, Mariappan; Kulandaiappan, Vellingiri

doi:10.1590/S1517-707620150004.0097

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Articles • Matéria (Rio J.) 20 (4) • Oct-Dec 2015 • https://doi.org/10.1590/S1517-707620150004.0097 copy

A study on the functional properties of silk and polyester / lyocell mixed fabric

Authorship SCIMAGO INSTITUTIONS RANKINGS

ABSTRACT

Silk is one of the valuable fibers in textile industry. It is used for delicate applications in many areas such as sarees, suitings, curtains and luxurious interiors. To diversify the properties and usages silk is mixed with polyester and lyocell. The fabric is dyed with natural dyes (kum kum, indigo, barberry) as well as synthetic dyes (reactive dye (H), reactive dye (M) and sulphur dye). This mixed fabric is compared with 100% silk for some of the basic properties like absorbency, water retention, wicking, water vapour permeability, air permeability, K/S values, colour fastness and antimicrobial property. The silk mixed fabric gives the appreciable results with the 100% silk fabric.

Key words:
Silk; lyocell; wicking; air permeability; antimicrobial

S. No.	Parameters	100% Silk	50% Silk+ (25% polyester and 25% lyocell)
1	Warp Count	2/80s	Silk : 2/80s
2	Weft Count	2/80s	Polyester and Lyocell (50 : 50) : 2/80s
3	Ends / Inch	100	100
4	Picks / Inch	60	68
5	GSM	95	101
6	Cloth Width (Inch)	44	44

S. No.	Dyes	Drop Absorbency (Seconds)
S. No.	Dyes	100%Silk	50% Silk+ (25% polyester and 25% lyocell)
1	Indigo	26.1	15.2
2	Kum kum	25.1	14.7
3	Barberry	25.3	14.9
4	Reactive (M)	24.9	13.8
5	Reactive dye (H)	24.7	13.5
6	Sulphur dye	26.7	15. 9
Mean		25.47	14.67
Standard Deviation		0.7737	0.8914
Variance		0.5987	0.7947

S. No.	Dyes	Water retention (%)
S. No.	Dyes	100%Silk	50% Silk+ (25% polyester and 25% lyocell)
1	Indigo	318	345
2	Kum kum	321	348
3	Barberry	320	347
4	Reactive (M)	323	349
5	Reactive dye (H)	324	351
6	Sulphur dye	317	343
Mean		320.5	347.17
Standard Deviation		2.74	2.86
Variance		7.5	8.17

S. No.	Dyes	Wicking (cm) [for 60 minutes]
S. No.	Dyes	100%Silk	50% Silk+ (25% polyester and 25% lyocell)
1	Indigo	13.7	15.2
2	Kum kum	13.9	15.5
3	Barberry	13.8	15.3
4	Reactive (M)	14.0	15.6
5	Reactive dye (H)	14.1	15.8
6	Sulphur dye	13.6	15.1
Mean		13.85	15.42
Standard Deviation		0.1871	0.2639
Variance		0.035	0.0697

S. No.	Dyes	Water Vapour permeability (g/m2/day)
S. No.	Dyes	100% Silk	50% Silk+ (25% polyester and 25% lyocell)
1	Indigo	1838	2031
2	Kum kum	1843	2036
3	Barberry	1840	2034
4	Reactive (M)	1846	.2038
5	Reactive dye (H)	1847	2040
6	Sulphur dye	1835	2029
Mean		1841.5	2034.67
Standard Deviation		4.68	4.18
Variance		21.9	17.47

S. No.	Dyes	Air Permeability l/min
S. No.	Dyes	100% Silk	50% Silk+ (25% polyester and 25% lyocell)
1	Indigo	55.8	110.2
2	Kum kum	54.1	109.8
3	Barberry	55.8	108.8
4	Reactive (M)	55.1	108.3
5	Reactive dye (H)	54.2	109.5
6	Sulphur dye	55.0	109.3
Mean		55.0	109.32
Standard Deviation		0.7403	0.6853
Variance		0.548	0.4697

S. No.	Colorimetric data of silk and its mixed fabric
	Dyes	100% Silk				50% Silk+ (25% polyester and 25% lyocell)
	Dyes	L*	a*	b*	C	h°	K/S	L*	a*	b*	C	h°	K/S
1	Indigo	26.20	-6.06	-14.41	23.10	262	14.01	37.91	-6.15	-15.30	21.62	251	14.60
2	Kum kum	27.71	-5.84	-15.95	23.51	251	13.70	31.04	-5.98	-15.52	22.02	255	14.50
3	Barberry	29.54	-5.96	-14.24	22.95	262	13.95	32.06	-5.30	-15.08	21.59	251	14.54
4	Reactive Dye (M)	36.80	-4.65	-16.84	23.01	256	14.30	27.42	-5.30	-14.87	22.14	265	14.84
4	Reactive Dye (H)	36.50	-6.95	-16.62	22.87	253	14.42	35.26	-4.32	-15.15	23.54	241	14.87
6	Sulphur Dye	28.65	-4.75	-16.16	23.54	246	14.21	33.32	-4.62	-15.18	23.95	268	14.65
Mean					14.1		Mean				14.67
Standard Deviation					0.2627		Standard Deviation				0.1549
Variance					0.0690		Variance				0.024

S. No.	Dyes	Fastness properties of reactive dyed silk and its mixed fabric
		100% Silk			50% Silk+ (25% polyester and 25% lyocell)
		Wash	Light	Rubbing		Wash	Light	Rubbing
		Wash	Light	Dry	Wet	Wash	Light	Dry	Wet
1	Indigo	4	4	2	1-2	4	4	2	1-2
2	Kum kum	3	3	3	1-2	3-4	2-3	2-3	1
3	Barberry	3	3	2-3	1-2	3	3	2-3	1-2
4	Reactive Dye (M)	3-4	3-4	3	2	3	3-4	2-3	1-2
5	Reactive Dye (H)	3-4	3-4	3	1-2	3-4	3-4	2-3	1-2
6	Sulphur Dye	4	4	2	1-2	4	4	2	1-2
Mean		3-4	3-4	2-3	1-2	3-4	3-4	2-3	1-2
Standard Deviation		0.4472	0.4472	0.4916	0.2041	0.4472	0.5845	0.2582	0.2041
Variance		0.2	0.2	0.2417	0.0417	0.2	0.3417	0.0667	0.0417

S. No.	Dyes	Antibacterial activity (Zone of Bacteriostasis - mm)
		Staphylococcus aureus		Escherichia coli
		100% Silk	50% Silk+ (25% polyester and 25% lyocell)	100% Silk	50% Silk+ (25% polyester and 25% lyocell)
1	Indigo	39	42	36	38
2	Kum kum	36	40	33	36
3	Barberry	36	39	33	35
4	Reactive dye (M)	37	42	34	37
5	Reactive dye (H)	38	42	35	38
6	Sulphur dye	39	43	36	39
Mean		37.5	41.33	34.5	37.17
Standard Deviation		1.38	1.51	1.38	1.47
Variance		1.9	2.27	1.9	2.17

Laboratório de Hidrogênio, Coppe - Universidade Federal do Rio de Janeiro, em cooperação com a Associação Brasileira do Hidrogênio, ABH2 Av. Moniz Aragão, 207, 21941-594, Rio de Janeiro, RJ, Brasil, Tel: +55 (21) 3938-8791 - Rio de Janeiro - RJ - Brazil
E-mail: revmateria@gmail.com

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[1] Corresponding Author: Jeyakodi Moses Jeyaraj